DAY 25: COBRIELL to BRIENNE-le-CHATEAU

Saturday 20 September.

 

I got up at 6:30 am to the loo and when I came back the lights were on and everyone else was up. We were now able to pack without disturbing anyone then we had breakfast. The guy had delivered plenty of bread last night and there was enough left to take with us for lunch. Jacques and Gerard were also making an early start this morning and left before us.

The start was along the street next to the Mairie and it was called Rue Haute de Romaines, at least some recognition was given that a Roman Road existed. It was tar at first but soon change to gravel but not as rough as yesterday. Again it was perfectly straight all the way to the village of Donnement. The sun was rising and it was starting to burn away a thick early mist. It was supposed to be 9 km but we covered the distance in 90 minutes, a bit quick. We had a break on the grass at the side of the road, there weren't any seats here. Cicerone said the next village was 3 km but a road sign said 5 km, at first we though that this was making up for the short measurement on the initial stretch but found that we were heading for Braux-le-Petit a smaller place before Braux. At this village we caught up with J&G who were sitting on a wall for a break and a sandwich. They were about to carry on and we were able to take their places on the wall. I brewed up some tea, the milk had gone sour, but it tasted all right black.

 

From here we had the option of taking a cross country route if the weather was good or stay on the road. We were opting for the off road one but we couldn't find the turning so had to stick to the road. This resulted in us doing the 5 km to the village of Braux after all. There was another small village to go through, Yevres-le-Petit, before reaching Ronsay-l'Hopital which has strong associations with Napoleon. There was a battle here during Napoleon's retreat from Russia. About 500m off the route was the Eglise Notre Dame a 12th century church consecrated by St Thomas a Becket. We would have liked to visit the church but my back was beginning to play up again and an extra kilometre didn't appeal.

Carrying on we ran in to trouble finding the route. The first 3 km were all right as we passed a big sand extraction plant with a large pond. Then the phrasing used in Cicerone can be confusing, eg ' as the road veers to the right, KSO(L) [keep straight on left] on an unsurfaced road for 100 m to meet the D396, then TL [turn left]' We came along the road as instructed and it bent or veered to the right and turning to the left was an unsurfaced road but it went off into the distance, there was certainly no main road after 100m. We decided to have lunch and plonked ourselves down on the road with a gate to lean against. A car came along and I waved it down and found out we had to go further along the road for the KSO(L). We found it after lunch, the veering to the right was actually a right angled bend.

 

Back on track again it was a slog along 6 km of a fairly busy road. This might well be part of the Roman Road system as it was straight all the way to Brienne-le-Chateau. We could see the chateau that the town is named for sitting on top of a small hill above the town. There was a big market festival going on in Brienne-le-Chateau when we arrived. Rue de Pasteur where our hotel was had been blocked off for traffic and was full of market stalls. We had to squeeze our way through the throng of people looking for our hotel. We found the other hotel in town, the Croix Blanche, but reached near the top of the hill where the Chateau was perched. We headed back down through the crowds and discovered that Hotel Les Voyageurs was on the other side of the main road, I should have turned left instead of right.

 

The hotel wasn't that great, rooms above a restaurant and bar. But the room was en suite and good enough. Gerard had booked two rooms in his name and I was worried that if they didn't turn up we would be charge for both rooms. Moira paid up front and it cost €45, so they can chase Gerard where every he is for the other room. As soon as we were settled Moira went out immediately in search of a supermarket while I showered. She got a bit lost and it took her about half an hour to find an InterMarche which was only a few minutes away. She got ham and cold slaw for dinner and a can of beer to quench our immediate thirst.

 

After Moira showered we went for a walk around the town and market. We met J&G wandering about and they had successfully made it and were in the hotel. First of all we were looking for the Tourist Information Office. This was another struggle through the crowds and stalls. There was a band making its way to the square and holding up progress. Eventually we reached the info office at the far end of town and the woman was very helpful. She stamped our cards and booked a hotel for us in Bar-en-Aude where we are making for tomorrow, at first she was frightened we wanted the municipal gite for pilgrims but we told her we had been informed it was closed. She told us it wasn't actually closed but being used this week-end for some people involved in the festivities. Attached to the Tourist Office was the Musee Napoleon which was originally the Ancienne Ecole Militaire founded in 1776 and where Napoleon studied from 1779-1784.

 

Heading back again we and a closer look at the stalls and found it wasn't any different to flea markets we had been to the world over. The only difference was this one had bands and the one we followed going out were now performing in the square. They weren't very good just a lot of banging of drums. We visited the local church and it had some fine stained glass windows. They all seemed to be telling a biblical story, some we could recognise but other were obscure and the details given were difficult to translate from the French. But most were very colourful and striking.

Before returning to our hotel we walked up the hill to the Chateau. It was behind locked gates and just looked from a distance like a huge stately home. An information board told us that it had been taken over by some state medical authority and was now a mental asylum. It was well after 6 pm when we got back and Moira prepared our picnic meal. Just as we were starting Suzy phoned on FaceTime and we saw Hollie this time as she hadn't gone to bed yet. After a chat we settle down to finish dinner and listen to some BBC radio programmes. The WiFi was very good, I posted all my blogs and picked up the radio loud and clear.

 

There was a lot of noise outside with revellers making their way for the market. Also the bar attached to the hotel was directly below our room and we had the smokers out in the street talking loudly. It was about midnight when it quietened down and we were able to get an I disturbed sleep.

 

 

 

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DAY 24: COOLE to COBRIELL

Friday 19 September.

 

The first thing I did this morning was to download the newspaper, there was good WiFi here, to get the Referendum result. The 'Noes' won, so there will be no major changes, we will now have to see if the politicians keep their promises about greater powers to the Scottish Government.

 

There had been some snoring during the night, from the Swiss pair, that wakened us but it didn't last long and we slept all right. The family and the rest of us were all up and about just after 7 am. The breakfast was the usual, bread and jam with either tea or coffee. We tried the tea but I can now understand why tea hasn't taken off in France, it was weak and tasteless. We resorted to the coffee which they do well. The grandchildren were also up but the little boy had a fever and wasn't going to nursery with his sister. We were packed and ready to go but before leaving I tried to post my latest blog, There was a problem not with the WiFi but with one of the photographs I had inserted, it didn't like it and wouldn't continue. I gave up and will try another day when we get Internet again.

 

 

The Swiss pair left before us after a photo session with Monique then it was our turn. We both took a few of each other and in groups then it was time to leave. Before going we left a donation, Monique was asked by the AIVF through the Mairies in the area requesting assistance for pilgrims. So we were being put up en famille together with a warm and friendly reception. After a while Monique started to accept donations. The Songys don't run a gite but have agreed to help pilgrims in an area with little accommodation and who are being accepted into their family as a valued guest, a very important distinction. Monique then gave us a donation towards Pancreatic Cancer UK and put a €10 note in the collection box.

After leaving Coole it was a short walk on tar before we took a gravel track towards the woods, Foret de Vauhalaise. We could see our companions of the walk up ahead and followed them. As we came into the woods there was a confusing cross-cross of paths and we weren't sure which to take. We picked right as after a worrying few minutes we spotted the Swiss up in front on the same path. This was the Voie Romaine again but no sign or indication that it was such an ancient monument. It continued to be perfectly straight but undulated through the fields for about 7 km to the village of Humbeauville. We caught up with Jacques and Gerard there, they had stopped to talk to a couple who were busy painting the windows of their house. These French can't half 'rabbit' once they get going !

 

We all stopped at the church on the main street for our mid-morning break. They sat on some gravestones in the church yard and had their sandwiches while we parked ourselves against the wall outside where I brewed up some tea. We sat there for half an hour, it was pleasantly warm and relaxing in the peace and quiet. But it was soon time to go again with 2 km on the road to the next village of Le Meix-Tiercelin. This little place had two sets of traffic lights one at each end of the village but as Moira pointed out they were basically to restrict speeding; if you are going too fast they turn red and stop you.

 

After leaving Le Meix-Tiercelin we picked up the Roman Road again for 7 km to our finish in Corbiell. Once again straight but now with some long steep hills but with nothing much of note to see. Underfoot it was a bit uncomfortable with lots of loose pebbles. My back was beginning to play up again and I had to keep adjusting the straps on my pack. We stopped for a rest about halfway and I got to the finish without any serious aches or pains.

 

We were staying in a room in the Mairie in Corbiell, Monique had phoned and made the arrangements. It was easy to find as it was a very small village with one street. Jacques and Gerard were there and had claimed two of the three beds. There was a mattress and Moira said she was happy with that, so I got a bed as well. The beds were actually camp beds so the mattress was probably more comfortable. I made a cup of tea heating the water in the microwave that was there while Moira made sandwiches. We went outside to a picnic table and ate there. There weren't any showers so we will have to go dirty for a day.

I stretched out on the bed and had a snooze, the other two did the same and had a good snore. A guy arrived at 2:30pm, we got a 'bonjour' then he spoke to J & G for about half an hour discussing the map of the next town we come to. Later we asked G for the map to photograph and he told us that the pilgrim accommodation in Brienne-le-Chateau, the next place, was closed (according to our visitor). We got our various lists of accommodations out and G phoned one of the hotels there. After a lengthy discussion he got two rooms at the Hotel des Voyageurs for tomorrow night. All done and dusted without a lot of arguing.

 

According to Cicerone there was supposed to be a cafe in the village. We walked from one end me to the other, not very far but there was nothing. It wasn't as if there had been one at the time of writing the guide and it was now closed. There just wasn't anything that in any way resembled a shop or cafe or pub.

 

The chap who came earlier returned about 7pm laden with food. There was ready made meals just to be heated in the microwave. Moira and I shared a roast chicken and mashed potatoes and a veal and rice. There were all right. There was also pâté, cheese and plenty of bread, apples and bananas. Over and above the obligatory bottles of wine, a

very nice red. While the other two chatted away for about half an hour with the guy we got stick in, we were starving.

 

Language is a funny thing. The guy had brought a stamp with him for our credentials. While the others were gossiping away with him Moira stamped our cards. Before leaving the guy then wanted to stamp our cards, but could we make him understand that we had done it ourselves. Moira showed him the credentials all stamped. He looked in amazement and couldn't figure out how this was possible. He left scratching his head still trying to puzzle it out.

 

After dinner we spent about and hour reading and I attempted the crossword in the paper I downloaded this morning, not successfully. We were all in bed shortly after 9pm and lights out soon after. As I predicted the camp beds weren't very comfortable and I think Moira got the best deal.

 

 

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DAY 23: CHALONS-en-CHAMPAGNE to COOLE

Thursday 18 September.

 

I finished off my blog before breakfast then we packed up ready to go. Before leaving we connected to the Internet in the dining room where I posted my blog and downloaded the newspaper. It was 8:30 am when we got going.

 

 

It was back through town to the bridge over the canal where we came off yesterday then to another bridge over the River Marne. From there the route followed the railway line for 2 km to the village of Compertrix. Leaving the village it was a quite lane away from the traffic for another 2 km to Coolus. Just before this village there was a little wayside chapel, Chappelle Saint Gibrien. The guide book said there was a seat beside it and it was there, we took advantage of a 5 minute break.

 

 

Once through Coolus we came to the Ancienne Voie Romaine but Cicerone said that the first 3 km had been ploughed over and we had to make a detour on a path beside the D2 before cutting back along a wide gravel track to pick up this old Roman road further along. I would have imagined that it would have been a Monument of Historical Importance or a World Heretage Site but there wasn't even a sign giving information or announcing that you were actually on it never mind allowing a farmer to plough it up. This is part of the Via Agrippa which was a road running from Milan to Boulogne-sur-Mer. I wondered why we didn't take that route all the way to Italy but it is probably now converted part of the way into a motorway.

Once we completed the detour and got on to this Roman road it was as the book said: 'as straight as a die'. It was like the canal yesterday no bends but it did undulate. Before starting on it we stopped for a cup of coffee in some shelter from the wind. Cicerone said that there was normally a wind blowing and into your face. It seemed to think this would be a hindrance but it fact it was a blessing, it kept us cool on a very hot day again. Another indication of the consistency of the wind was the number of wind turbines. On the crest of the hill in front of us there were hundreds. We seemed to be now clear of the vineyards and the fields here appeared to be predominately used for sugar beat with plenty of the crop in piles at the edges of the fields for collection. There were no villages or towns to go through and we judged the distance covered by the different roads and lanes that crossed the track along the way. At one crossing there was a large barn open at one end with bales of hay and pallets. It was sheltered from the wind and sun and an ideal spot for a break for lunch. I brewed the tea while Moira spread pâté on fresh bread we bought this morning in Chalons.

 

Where we lunched was just after a tarred road that cut diagonally across the track as stated by our guide book. We were now at another minor road 800m further on which the book said to cross and we would reach the village of Vesignuel-sur-Coole in 2 km. it was still the Roman road and perfectly straight and heading to a wooded area where we thought the village would be. Suddenly things began to go wrong, the track turned sharply to the left and there was no track across the field in front to the woods. We decided to follow the track round and after 100m it turned right and straightened again; unfortunately there wasn't a village to be seen in any direction, just field after field. We continued and I saw in the distance a road and our track was heading for it. But it didn't help much as where these tracks meet main roads there are no signposts or any indication of the road number. While Moira was trying to connect her phone to use the satnav function a tractor came along the road, I quickly stopped him to ask directions to Coole. Again my French was adequate and he said continue straight pointing up the road. At the same time Moira got a result on her phone and agreed it was straight along the road and only 5.5 km.

 

We made good time along a quiet road and in a short distance we came to a junction with the sign pointing to Coole. In the end we didn't lose any time with our detour and arrived in Coole at 4:15pm as I had calculated. I had to ask some people for directions to the Songy's house, they knew them and pointed to the house opposite, they had moved from no.17, the address on Rue de Chalons that I had, to no13. Sitting out on the porch under an umbrella was Jacques we met in Reims. He showed us where we were sleeping, there were two blow-up mattresses on the lounge floor. The owners weren't here yet and I couldn't get much sense out of Jacques other than make ourselves at home and have a beer from the fridge. Gerard was having a shower and when he finished we got washed, it was lovely bathroom and the shower was excellent. We both washed some clothes while showering and hung them out in the sun to dry. We sat on the porch at a table under the umbrella and read the newspaper with a beer. This is Referendum Day and the results will be in when we awake in the morning. Margaret phoned and we had a chat with her while waiting for somebody to arrive and tell us what was happening.

By 7pm it was getting cold and we were hungry. We came in and sat in the lounge and had some bread and cheese we had left to keep us going. It was 8pm when Monique and Jean-Pierre arrived. Monique spoke English and was very helpful and efficient. She arranged our accommodation for tomorrow at Corbiell where we sleep in the Mairie. For dinner we started with a big bowl of grated carrots which turned out quite tasty with an oranges flavoured sauce and a slice of melon. Next it was a cheesy pasta and we mixed tomato purée with it. Then there was bread, pâté and cheese. There was two very nice red wines to accompany all this. It is amazing how the French can make such a simple basic meal turn into an occasion. Halfway through the meal Monique's daughter arrived with her two children, they were staying the night, Monique was babysitting her grandchildren. It was better this time for conversation, the two Swiss had Jean-Pierre to talk to and we were able to chat in English with Monique.

 

It was about 10pm when we eventually got to bed. The others stayed up for another half a hour but we weren't disturbed. We slept well on the mattress on the floor.

 

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DAY 22: TREPAIL to CHALONS-en-CHAMPAGNE

Wednesday 17 September.

 

A vehicle started sounding its horn in the street about 5:30am, it was picking up the grape pickets. We heard the ones in the room next to us leaving. We hadn't been a sound from them during the night, they must have been fast asleep and no wonder if they start at 5:30am and work all day in the fields in the hot sun. They must be dead beat by the time they get back in the evening.

 

After this early alarm we dozed for half an hour then read the newspaper on our IPads. The other two occupants, their names were Jacques and Gerard, didn't move for another hour then we all got up and packed. I got my blog ready for posting and we used Moira's iPhone as a router but it was slow when I tried to publish and eventually gave up. Surprisingly we both managed to download today's newspaper. Before going down for breakfast Gerard put some money into the Pancreatic Cancer collection box that Moira carries in the pocket at the side of her rucksack.

 

For breakfast it was just bread and coffee. Jacques and Gerard were already having breakfast with Mne Jacquersminet when we arrived and were surprised when we asked for coffee. They were drinking tea and it looked like they had a friendly bet with Mne J that we would have tea as well being Brits. They serve the tea and coffee in bowls similar to cereal bowls and you have to watch that it isn't too hot when you lift it. Mne J only asked for a donation, we gave €60 (€30 each) as suggested on our accommodation guide. Moira gave her a €50 and a €10 note. The woman looked at the fancy design on the '10' she hadn't seen one like before. I examined it and found it was a Clydesdale Bank £10 note. Maybe this was an omen for the Referendum and we will using the Scottish Bank notes as Euros.

 

We made our way down through the town and picked up the D26 road to the next village of Ambonnay. It was again through the vines and the road was very busy with vans and tractors setting up the picking process that was going on among the different estates. After Ambonnay the vines seemed to disappear, a lot of the fields had been ploughed ready for panting and further on the there big mounds of sugar beat awaiting collection. Just on the outskirts of Conde-sur-Marne we found a convenient bench for a 5 minute break before continuing. We didn't go into the village but picked up the Canal Lateral a la Marne which we followed for 20 km all the way into Chalons-en-Champagne.

 

The towpath began as a twin track through the grass. Is was all right and easy walking. When we reached the first lock at Vraux the surface change to tar and it was like that all the way to Chalons. We had a break at that lock and I made a cup of tea which we had with a biscuit. While we were sitting drinking our tea Jacques and Gerard passed, they had left before us but somehow we had got in front. On the go again the walk became monotonous, the canal was straight and didn't take the slightest bend until reaching Chalons. The only thing that broke the tedium was the bridges and locks and once we saw a heron taking to flight as we disturbed it. The flat straight walking on tar began to affect my back and it steadily got more painful. It wasn't on the same place that crippled me on the first day from Canterbury but up near my shoulder blades. It didn't influence my walking I was still able to stride out but it was painful nevertheless. We stopped at a bridge into the village of Juvigny for lunch, a chicken sandwich and tea, there I stretched out on the ground which seemed to ease the tension. After that I stopped every half hour for a good stretch and this kept me going.

As we got nearer the city houses and factories began to appear and the canal took some twists and bends. Ahead could be seen the pointed tower of St Etienne Cathedral and further to the left the twin spires of Notre-Dame en Vaux. When we reached the bridge into Chalons I had to sit and ease my back and Moira went in search of water. It had been extremely hot today and we were both feeling dehydrated but there were no taps at the nearby lock and no shops in the area. We headed into town and there was a street map at the end of the bridge enabling us to find our way to Notre-Dame en Vaux where Mne J told us there was accommodation for pilgrims with credentials. She was wrong but the charming and very helpful ladies there phoned around and found us a cheap hotel only 5 minutes walk away, Hotel de la Citie.

We had a nice big room en-suite and the first thing was to get a cup of tea brewing. We lay on the bed quenching our thirsts and relaxed for an hour. After showering and changing we headed back into town in search of a supermarket. We hadn't seen any on the way in and decided to ask the ladies at the church. Typical of the French this caused a lengthy discussion and argument with arm waving and shoulder shrugging. Eventually a man there indicted to follow him and it was about 100 metres away in a Galleria in a pedestrian precinct. We wanted to visit the Cathedral but couldn't find out when the supermarket closed in order to shop on our return. In the end we shopped and I carried the bag to the Cathedral.

 

We should have gone first as the Cathedral had just closed when we arrived there. It was a pity because it had some good stained glass windows. It was a 12th century structure that had been again destroyed by fire, then after reconstruction badly damaged and used as a stable during the Revolution. The building now is more recent, 19th century. Outside was a war memorial commemorating the French dead in many wars. There were a few killed recently in Afghanistan, according to the newspapers one would think it was only the British and the Americans that were involved there !

 

Back at the hotel we had another picnic in the room. There was still some meat left from the roast chicken Moira bought the other day and we had that with tomato and cold slaw. A yoghurt and apple for dessert did us nicely. The WiFi was only good in the dining room and Moira managed to contact Suzy on FaceTime. Hollie was in bed so we didn't see her. They had been to St Andrews for the day and she was very tired. Later I managed to get my blog from yesterday posted.

 

Back in the room where we enjoyed a bottle of red wine from the supermarket, back to the cheap plonk. We then caught up on the news in the papers. The Referendum is tomorrow and the result will be first thing Friday morning. Suzy had posted our vote so now we wait and see !

 

 

 

 

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DAY 21: REIMS to TREPAIL

Tuesday 16 September.

 

We were up at 6am and I made a cup of coffee, plenty of Gaz now though I'm still squeezing some out of the old canister. We packed and had breakfast. I had prepared my blog and before going published it out where the WiFi was strongest, but it still took far too long. If these hotels advertise WiFi the it should be usable.

 

We walked up to the bus stop at the supermarket and there was a bus waiting. It took about 20 minutes to get to the city centre; I wasn't sure where we were when we got off but Moira was confident and led the way to the canal. Cicerone said we should be on the left hand towpath but there didn't seem to be a walkway there while the right hand side had a lovely tarred track. It well used by walkers, joggers and cyclists, but mainly people running, there were hundreds of them. The canal itself was still quite busy with barges working from the many warehouses and plants along the other bank. After about 6 km at St Leonard's the tar track finished and so did he joggers etc. it became a narrow path between the grass still good for walking and now we didn't have to worry about cyclists coming up behind us.

 

 

The next place, where we came away from the canal, was Sillery but I wasn't sure how we knew when we got there. All I had put in my notes was: follow the towpath to Sillery. We came to a bridge over the canal and stopped to consult the iPad and found that we would recognise Sillery when we arrived at the marina there. When I was

lifting my rucksack to get going again I discovered it had been in dog's 'doings', I also stood in it and had it on my hands and legs from the rucksack. We cleaned myself and the rucksack as best we could using water from the canal but I was still smelling.

 

It was another 2 km to the marina at Sillery and there we found the toilets open. I got the soap out and thoroughly washed myself while Moira gave the rucksack a good scrub. There was a aerosol can of air freshened in the toilet block and Moira sprayed me and the bag with it, I now smelt of apples. After cleaning up I made a cup of coffee and we had it with a biscuit while watching the ducks in the canal. At the marina there were a number of canal cruisers tied up.

 

From Sillery we crossed the motorway and a railway line before turning along a lane through the fields of vines. We saw a number of caravans and motorhomes in a piece of waste ground and thought at first it was a group of travelling people but it turned out to be accommodation for one party of migrant workers who were picking the grapes. There were hundreds of these groups of workers all over the vineyards harvesting the grapes. Once they filled their baskets they were collected into crates and vans picked these up for delivery to the winery. We spoke to one of the workers and he gave us each a bunch of green grapes. They were small but juicy and sweet, very refreshing on what was turning out to be a very hot day.

 

When we reached the next town of Verzernay. It was much quicker than we expected, the book said 5.5 km but it was about 2km shorter. There was a detour we could have taken and followed a GR route to visit the Moulin de Verzernay, an old windmill that we could see on a hill to our right. We didn't bother with the loop and made do with the view of the windmill from a distance. When we reached Verzernay we couldn't find a place to sit and have lunch but we continued through and up a very steep hill to La Phare where we found a picnic area. La Phare was an actual lighthouse on a hill in the middle of the fields of vines. It was the work of a champagne merchant Joseph Goulet who built it to promote his champagne house in 1909. It is now a museum and the Musee de la Vigne restored it in 1999 and used it for visitors to explore the world of the champagne vineyards. After we had lunch at a picnic table we had a walk round the lighthouse and I got some good photographs. Also from this height the view was outstanding, out over the flat plains with row after row of vines while sitting below in a hollow was the town we had just passed through, Verzernay.

While we were stopped we considered our options about finding a bed for the night. There was a few B&B's at the next village of Verzy just 1.5 km further, or a hotel in Villers-Marmery 3 km after that. The only problem with stopping early was that it meant a walk of over 30 km tomorrow. As a last resort I decided to try out my French on the phone and call the gite in Trepail that we had attempted to contact yesterday through the tourist office. I got through, managed to make myself understood and got us booked into the gite. We now set off with a bit more confidence.

 

We reached Verzy and decided to take an optional route that by -passed the village itself and also missed out Villers-Marmery. It picked up a GR trail but our guide book was confusing over the distance to Trepail. From it I understood it to be only 3.5 km but it turned out to be 7.5 km. it was a pleasant route after a very steep climb along a contour path through the forest. The nice track was firm underfoot and we were making fairly good time in now very warm conditions. When we reached a road the GR red and white markers stopped and we weren't sure which way to go. A tractor came down from between the vines and I was about to ask directions when the guy spoke first. He was the one I had spoken to on the phone and his mother ran the gite in Trepail. He gave us directions, the street to make for near the church and the house number. I think he had been watching for us coming along the road to keep us right, good service.

 

We found the house without any problem and Mne Jacquesminet was charming though no English. She took us over to the other side of the street through a barn door and up a rickety stairway to a small dorm. It had a double bunk and two single beds. She said that two more people were coming, we grabbed the single beds and left them the bunks. It wasn't the best of places but we had a bed and the water in the shower was nice and hot. I got rid of the sweat and any remaining smells of the dog droppings from earlier. Before anyone else arrived I boiled some water and we and a cup of tea. In another room there were two of the workers from the grape harvesting who arrived about 5pm, an hour later two Swiss guys also doing the Vai Francigena arrived, they had also started from Reims today.

 

 

At 7pm we went across to the main house for dinner. The table was set out in the courtyard and in the corner was a horse in a small paddock outside its stable. It was dining with family, there were Mne Jacquesminet and her son, another young guy who we thought was one of the grape workers but turned out to be well at home so another one of the family, a young woman but she left early and the two Swiss pilgrims. I don't know if this was a normal meal but it was magnificent, we started with a glass of champagne, then it was bread and homemade pâté, along with the main course of meatballs and rice there was a rose wine, there followed cheese and bread with a rich red wine, to finish we had a tub of chocolate mousse and a liqueur. At the end we were very satisfied and totally full. The only problem had been that we missed out on the conversation which was all in fast French.

 

We went to bed first but the two Swiss guys weren't far behind. They were soon in bed as well and the light out. The bed was very comfortable and I slept very well, just some light snoring from one of the Swiss.

 

 

 

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DAY 20: Sight seeing in REIMS

Monday 15 September.

 

It was nearly 7am when we eventually awoke this morning, yesterday had really taken it out of us. We deserved to have an easy day today. I am still squeezing Gaz out of the cylinder and we had a cup of tea with our bread and jam for breakfast. Before leaving Moira did all our washing and hung it to dry around the room, hopefully there is enough time for it to dry before we leave tomorrow.

 

At 9am we made our way up to the Carrefour supermarket hoping to find some camping Gaz. They did have it but it was in smaller canisters and I didn't know if my burner adaptor would fit. We decided to come back when we returned from Reims and get the burner from the hotel and check it out.

 

From the bus routes map in the bus shelter we saw it was a straight road into the city and we headed along it. It was a busy road but we had a big broad pavement to walk on. It was obviously the route into a major city as it was lined with car dealership. It went through the suburbs of Tinqueux and Epernay then crossed the Pont de Vesle into the city. The bridge went over the motorway then the canal where we will pick up the towpath again tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

Once over the bridge we followed the signs to the Cathedral and the Tourist Info. We could see the wonderful Cathedral at the top of the street with its huge square towers, the tourist office signs pointed that way as well but when we reached the large square in front of the Cathedral they disappeared. I had to resort to asking a passerby and he spoke English, he said to follow him and it was in the corner of the square. There we got a city map and requested the woman who spoke excellent English to phone our selected accommodation for tomorrow. We had two numbers, one for a cell phone, but neither got a reply. We said we would come back again later to try.

 

We went next to the Notre-Dame Cathedral. It surpasses any we have seen previously, even those at Burgos and Leon in Spain. The Cathedral was all but destroyed by a fire at the start of the War in 1914 then by bombing which left the whole of the city devastated in 1918. There was a photographic display of the destruction caused by both incidents and how the town and church have been restored and risen again to their former magnificence. Around the doorways and all over the outside were carvings of biblical scenes and prominent figures from thr bible and the church. One that was famous was that of the 'Smiling Angel'. The head had been destroyed in the bombings but had been reconstructed from photographs and is an angel with a smile on its face. Other than the outstanding architecture the other breathtaking feature were the windows. The stained glass was better than those in Leon, Spain and those were exceptional. While we walked round the organ was playing in the background and later from somewhere a choir softly sang and chanted. The restoration of this wondrous place shows that there are still craftsmen and artisans capable of carrying out such work with loving and tender care.

 

 

 

After leaving we remembered about our Via Francigena credentials and returned to have them embossed with a beautiful Cathedral stamp. We then walked around the outside and through the gardens at the back admiring the structure from the outside. In the gardens two men were busy drawing pictures of the building. At the side of the Cathedral was the Palace of Tau where the objects associated with the Coronation of French Kings are displayed. In 498AD, the King of Franks Clovis was baptised here and since then Notre Dame has been the choice Cathedral for the Coronation of 25 Kings.

 

 

 

 

Next we had a walk about the streets of the city, it is a very nice and open place with wide streets and lots of tourists. Along the main shopping streets we were on the look out for a place that might sell camping Gaz. I didn't hold out much hope of finding a camping shop or ironmonger's in the expensive city centre. But hope springs eternal and lo and behold there was a large sports outlet. At first it didn't look promising with mainly shoes and sportswear on the first two floors. Our last chance was the basement and there they had bicycles and camping gear. And on a shelf in the corner were the canisters we were looking for as well as the small ones we saw at Carrefour earlier. The fittings for both sizes were the same so I decided to get a big one here and a small one as a stand-by when we shop at Carrefour later.

 

Moira suggested that we finish off early in the city and give our legs a rest, so we decided to get the bus back. First though we had lunch; at a Spar we got pâté, bread and some beer then sat in the gardens at the Cathedral on a bench beside the two men we saw earlier drawing; they were still busy with their sketching. Before heading for he bus we asked at the tourist office about phoning. The woman said that they had phoned back and said to use another telephone number but this went to voice mail. She left a message and the tourist woman said she would get in touch by phone or email if the accommodation was confirmed.

 

Now it was back to our hotel. The bus dropped us off at the Carrefour supermarket and it only took 15 minutes. We decided to take the bus tomorrow to the canal where we can start walking as we had walked that bit there this morning. After doing the shopping and getting something for dinner, the decision was to eat in our room again, we strolled back to the hotel. Now with plenty of Gaz we could have a big cup of coffee and relax on the bed drinking it.

 

The washing was still slightly damp but will be dry by morning. The WiFi here wasn't very good especially having to go to the reception area to connect. Moira managed to download a library book and I posted my blog but when I tried to send an email to the 'Greenock Telegraph' it wouldn't go because of the photographs attached. We had dinner in our room roast chicken and salad and a nice cheap red wine. After that we relaxed on the bed, read the newspaper and I made progress with the crossword.

 

The woman from theTourist Office in Reims didn't get in touch about our accommodation for tomorrow. Moira sent a text message to the gite in Trepail where we are heading a text saying we are coming. We just have to hope for the best that we get a bed.

 

 

 

 

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DAYS 18 & 19: LAON to REIMS

Saturday 13 September.

 

Last night when I wrote out today's route in my little note book part of the section between Bievres and Bouconville-Vauclair didn't make sense. We were to look out for the GR12 red and white route markings at the top of a long hill out of Bievres but it didn't tell us what to do, go left or right or ignore them and carry straight on. Moira had a look at the text and couldn't understand it either, we decided to wait until we got there and hopefully it would be obvious. Unfortunately during the night about 4am I woke and started worrying about this part of the route and that we might get lost, I couldn't get back to sleep again. I was still worried right up till we left from Bievres. The description was OK, over the River Bievres, up the hill past the Ferme d'Everaigne to a mini quarry. I didn't know what a mini quarry was and it turned out to be a large hole at the side of the road. There was a large wide track going off to the left and further up the road, looking back we could see the GR waymarks pointing a turning along this track. All the confused instructions became clear, the GR route came down the hill and turned along the track that was why we had to be careful and look out for them. The worrying route was now a pleasant walk across the fields on one side and woodland on the other. It was along a ridge with good views of the valleys below. If the book had only said at the mini quarry turn left along a wide track for a joyful off-road walk I would have been looking forward to it rather than losing sleep.

 

It was an early start again at 7:30am. We had orange juice for breakfast with our yoghurt and jammed bread in order to conserve what little Gaz we had left. Instead of walking all the way back into Laon to pick up the route we carried on along the main road outside the hotel for 3km to pick up the D516 which went directly to Bruyeres-et-Montberault another 5km, where rejoined the Cicerone route. The first part was on a busy road but luckily there was a wide grassy section at the side where we could safely walk; once on the D516 it was a lot quieter. At Bruyeres we stopped for a rest. They were setting up the market stalls in the town square where there were seats as well. We had a break, some orange juice and watched the market activity.

 

It was only 2km to the next village of Cheret but we thought we deserved another break. The guide book said there were seats at the church but we couldn't find them, instead we sat on the steps at the front door. From Cheret it was supposed to be 5 km to Bievres but after a steep climb of just over a kilometre we crossed a major road and the signpost said 'Bievres 2km'. So a couple of kilometres somehow getting us to the worrying section sooner than expected. We sat on seats in front of the Mairie where I made a cup of coffee. There was still some Gaz left. We weren't the only ones worried about route finding on this area, two cars stopped and asked for directions but they asked the wrong people!

 

As described my worries were misplaced and a lovely walk over a ridge through the fields took us out at a huge Chateau, La Bove. We could only get a glimpse of this magnificent house through the trees and at the gate there was a warming about guard dogs if we tried to get any closer. It was then an easy walk downhill to Bouconville-Vauclair where we again found seats in the village square for lunch. It was 5km to go to the finish so we were no hurry and relaxed for an hour in the pleasant sunshine reading the newspaper we downloaded before leaving this morning.

 

After our break, now fully refreshed we covered the remaining distance in just over an hour. It was a quiet road through the woods with a gentle steady climb to reach the village of Corbeny. Just before reaching our hotel there was a boulongerie and we looked in the window but it was closed. We were going to carry on when a man came out the gate next door and asked if we wanted bread. 'Yes' and he gave us three baguettes, 'gratuit'- free. They must have been left over in the shop and would just go hard. The hotel, Chemin des Dames, was next door. We went into the bar by mistake and the barman was clueless but he eventually tracked down the woman in charge and we were soon in our room. It was all right but a bit overpriced at €60 for the night. There was a bath but no shower cubicle so we both soaked our aches and pains and stiffness in hot tub. It worked and we felt totally refreshed afterwards.

The name of the hotel, Chemin des Dames, refers to the area nearby which was a key battlefield in WW1. In particular it is remembered for the Second Battle of Ainse on April 1917 when 270,000 French soldiers lost their lives. The area around the road, Chemin des Dames is completely flat and you could visualise the trenches of each side where they had dug in and artillery blasting shells from one side to the other.

 

We thought about eating in the hotel restaurant but the prices were extortionate. Fortunately there was a little general store in the village and Moira got some stuff for another picnic meal in the room. There was WiFi downstairs but not on the room, but that signal was poor as well. We settled to lying in bed after eating and reading until time for a well deserved sleep.

 

 

Sunday 14 September.

 

The route took us along 3km of the Canal Lateral de l'Aisne between Pontavet and Gernicourt. It was overgrown first with grass then with nettles. We had to put on our waterproof trousers to continue without being stung. Eventually we scrambled up a steep slope into a field and made better progress there even though it was hard going along ruts made by the tractors. This is the third canal where the towpath has been neglected and allowed to deteriorate. This is surprising as the canals themselves are clean and well maintained, though we haven't seen any sailing craft using them. There was another section along the Canal Lateral de l'Ainse going into Reims. I imagined it would be much the same but was pleasantly surprised to find a tarred path all the way. People were out using it for walking, jogging and cycling. Also the canal was being used by a number of barges taking materials to and from warehouses and factories along the opposite canal bank.

 

 

There was enough Gaz still left for a cup of coffee to go with our bread and jam before we left at 7:30 am again. It was a bit overcast this morning so we didn't have a nice sunrise to thrill us as we started out. It was 3 km to get down the side of a triangle to get back by another the road to the D19 from Bouconville-Vauclair that we had left yesterday to get to our overnight stop of Corbeny, from there it was a further 3km on a quite road into the village of Portavert. Before entering the village we found a shrine and at seat by the roadside mentioned in our guide and had a rest for 5 minutes. This has been the routine we have adopted, when we reach a village or town it is rewarded by a short rest.

From Portavert the route crossed the river L'Ainse before reaching the canal where we struggled through the undergrowth. It had been slow going on the towpath and field and when eventually reaching Gernicourt were 30 minutes behind the schedule I had set myself. We still had our rest there before plodding on. After that the route was trouble free through a number of small villages and towns, Cormicy, Cauroy, Villers, Frauqueux, Thil and Saint Thierry on minor roads and good tracks off-road through fields. The agriculture varied as we went along, there was still lots of maize growing and still to be harvested, then we saw a field of potatoes with the machine digging up the potatoes, screening them and conveying them into a tractor with a trailer running alongside. Later there were mounds of sugar beat already harvested in the corners of fields that a tractor with a bucket was lifting scoopfuls and dumping into trucks. These trucks were shuttling the crop to a mill that we could see in the distance. Finally we arrived in around Thil and Saint Thierry the start of the Champagne region. The fields were now row upon row of vines which were different from what we had seen in Spain and Portugal. The vines were much smaller and the rows were much closer together. Beside each wine estate was the outlet where you could go and taste the wine and purchase your favourite. Champagne is too expensive for us, we will stick to the red plonk at €2 a bottle.

 

 

After Saint Thierry there was a long trek over the fields on a good firm track to a bridge over the motorway. Once across we knew our hotel wasn't far away but weren't sure how to get there. Moira consulted a satnav on her phone and I wrote down the instructions which were extremely complicated, a zig zag of twists and turns through back streets. We decided to follow its route anyway which coincided withe the Cicerone for the first 1.5 km then we couldn't find one of the roads but the Canal Lateral d'Ainse was ahead as per Cicerone. We changed plan and took the towpath to get nearer Reims our hotel being on the outskirts. It was a lovely walk on this tarred towpath and there were benches at intervals for a rest. When we came to the first bridge across the canal we consulted our instruments but could find it on the satnav but not the iPad. I asked two walkers for help, they scratched their heads then more got involved that were passing. It turned out as usual with the French a big discussion and arms waving about but no result. Another man came along and indicated to follow him he knew where we wanted to go. We followed but found out he was clueless as well, at the next bridge over the canal he said it was still 3 km to go whereas we knew it was close by. We came off at that bridge and the satnav showed the route which was now practically a direct route and we reached the hotel in about 10 minutes.

 

 

 

The Hotel Stars was another box-like affair and quite shabby on the outside. Inside it was quite plush for a Formula 1 type place, the room was small but OK with a big double bed. It was now 5 pm and we were very tired, it had been a long day and we had walked at least 30 km. Moira had booked us in here for another night to go sightseeing in Reims tomorrow but an easy day will also be welcomed. We showered in lovely hot water and put on fresh clothes to go find something to eat. The woman at reception spoke no English but with my limited French managed to get directions for a Carrefour supermarket and shopping mall where I assumed would be a restaurant. Just outside an English guy asked if we were looking for a place to eat and said there was nothing, the one at the supermarket was closed it being Sunday and also nobody spoke English, he complained. We went anyway and my French couldn't be too bad as I found it with the directions from the woman. There were a couple of cars in the huge car park but otherwise it was dead then I spotted the 'M' sign for 'MacDonald's', well at least we would eat. It turned out all right, we both had the 'petit menu', a cheese burger, fries and a cool drink. Afterwards we treated ourselves to a strawberry sundae iced cream. We both felt much better after that.

 

We walked through the car park back and found another restaurant open 'Munch'. It looked more upmarket and we might try that tomorrow. Back at the hotel we saw the Englishman again, he said he knew about 'MacDonald's' but didn't consider it a place to eat! When your starving even a Big Mac is gourmet food.

 

The WiFi was only available at the reception area and Moira had downloaded the newspaper earlier while I showered. We now got to bed and caught up with the news. I tried the crossword but my eyes were closing. It was only about 8:30 pm when we turned out the lights.

 

 

 

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